Reef Aquarium Water Tips for Beginners

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Marine fishkeeping is a very alluring hobby. The first time I saw a pristine reef tank at the age of 10, I knew I wanted to dive head first into the hobby. If you're like me, you most likely did the same and, like me, struggled to replicate the beautiful reef tank.

Growing up in a small town, as I did, means everyone knows everyone. My dad's mechanic friend was my 5th grade teacher's husband. One day, my dad took me with him on one of his trips to see his mechanic. When we pulled up, I recognized my teacher, who invited me into her house to show me the fish tank she was so proud of. Like the rest of the students in the class, I had heard many stories about the fish in this tank, so I was excited to see it in person.

Once I saw the tank in person, I was in love… I had never seen such beautiful fish in my life—so bright and colorful. It definitely put my guppy tank to shame. From that moment on, it was all I spoke about, which I'm sure drove my family nuts. That year for Christmas, I got a 30-gallon aquarium and all the supplies to start my very own saltwater tank.

It was a bumpy road when I first started keeping fish, and over the years, I've learned so much. Now that I'm older, there are tips I wish someone had told me sooner—before I had to learn the hard way. Don't get me wrong; this hobby isn't as difficult as everyone makes it out to be. Once you learn the science behind your frustrations, your dream reef becomes much more attainable.

Water Quality and Algae Blooms People always ask me, "Why is my water green?" or, "How do I get rid of all the algae growing in my aquarium?" I struggled with algae issues for years. I performed water changes like the guy at the pet store told me to, 20% every month, like clockwork. But algae kept growing, even on my coral.

Doing water changes helps to remove built up ammonia, nitrates and nitrites—which is important, as these compound build-ups can cause algae growth, stress and even death to your fish and invertebrates. Ammonia and nitrites should be kept under 0.1 ppm (parts per million) and nitrates should be kept under 1.1 ppm. There are some products that claim to detoxify these compounds so that you can greatly reduce the frequency of water changes. I have tested many of them, with very poor results. The only ones I can recommend are those that say "live bacteria" added to boost your tank's biological filtration. However, even with these products, to maintain a healthy and happy aquarium, I still recommend performing regular water changes.

As I mentioned earlier, I completed regular water changes, and still experienced algae blooms. Well, here is the next thing I learned about water quality: Not only is changing 20% of your water every month important, so is measuring and ensuring the quality of the new water. You're probably thinking, well yeah, I wouldn't use dirty water. But are you using tap water? I was when I first started. Tap water may be clean enough for us to drink, but it is riddled with compounds that make life for your corals difficult.

Phosphate is a compound normally added to tap water in such low quantities that the water is still safe for human consumption. But in your aquarium, algae will consume phosphates as a food source, causing a large algae bloom. If you have a bad algae bloom in your aquarium and you do a water change with water that could have phosphates in it, you will just make matters worse.

Other causes of algae bloom Excess nutrients from overfeeding and overstocking your tank can also lead to algae bloom. When it comes to the number of fish in your saltwater tank, it's recommended that you stock 1 inch of fish per every 3 gallons of water. It's also important to maintain an appropriate feeding schedule in order to help prevent an algae bloom.

Where can I get quality water? Now you're probably wondering, what can I do to ensure my water is phosphate-free? You have a few options. For reef set-ups, it's best to use RODI (Reverse osmosis and deionized) water, but RO (Reverse Osmosis) water is great too. You can create your own by buying an RODI or RO system. These units can get expensive and create a good bit of wastewater, but the wastewater is great for use in a garden, and if you have a large reef tank, the unit will pay for itself in no time.

Another option is your local pet store. Many do sell RODI and/or RO water by the gallon; just remember to bring your own containers with lids. If neither of these methods work for you, when in a bind, I have been known to get water from drinking water vending machines. These machines dispense RO water and can be found outside many grocery stores. In addition, when I just need a gallon or so to top off the sump after a long day, my zero water pitcher makes RO water, so I've been known to use it for a top-off. Remember, don't use the zero water pitcher straight from the refrigerator, cold water will shock your tank inhabitants and could even kill them.

What is RO water? Reverse osmosis is a process that purifies water by forcing it through a fine, semi-permeable membrane and filters out up to 99% of the chemicals found in tap water. Deionization removes additional contaminants and dissolved solids. RO water will work great for most beginner reef tanks; deionization just takes it to the next level of security.

What is RODI water? If you want the purest, cleanest water available for your aquarium, an RODI system is the way to go. RODI is a reverse osmosis water purifier that has a deionized (DI) water chamber added on to the system. To deionize water, special materials are used in the chamber that attract ions from the water. RODI units can produce very pure water and, in most cases, test at zero TDS, or no Total Dissolved Solids (pure water).

How do I know if I'm using quality water? The best way to know if you're using quality water is to test it with a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter. They are very inexpensive; in fact, I received one free with my zero water pitcher that I use to test my drinking water as well as my aquarium replacement water. Tap water will test between 140-400+ ppm while RO and RODI should test under 50. In many cases, RODI will be zero. Obviously, if you're going to test, do it before adding salt to the water, as dissolved salt would give you a high reading.

Can phosphates only be found in water? Low-quality salt can also contain phosphates. Check the brand of salt you use. Most brands will call out whether it is phosphate-free.

Phosphates can also be found in the food you're feeding your fish, which is why it's important to monitor the amount and frequency you provide.

What if I'm already using the wrong water? If you started your aquarium with tap water, or some other low-quality water, and you're wondering how to combat the algae growth, it's easy. The algae needs the phosphates to continue to grow. To kill the algae, stop providing phosphates. Do a 20-40% water change using RO or RODI water. Also make sure the salt you are using is phosphate-free. Finally, there are some products out there that you can buy to help remove phosphates from your aquarium. I have used a few different ones in my filter with success. But remember to read the packaging, as most should only be left in your filter for a limited time.

Water quality is the cornerstone of all successful reef aquariums. With only half the story, you could be making the problem worse while thinking you're fixing it. I hope you now understand one of the main reasons why you might have algae blooms, and how to take back control over the phosphates that cause you so much frustration.

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Article by: BrentNpetco

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