Keeping an aquarium can be both a rewarding and relaxing experience. Freshwater tanks are relatively inexpensive to set up and maintain. As you gain knowledge and experience, different types of aquaria such as marine salt water tanks, cold water tanks, and brackish water tanks can be set up and maintained. Whatever system you choose, it is important to know the basics of fish care.
Water, Water Everywhere!
Without a source of good clean water, fish or aquatic plants will not survive. It is important to determine the quality of the water on hand as a baseline in order to provide a healthy tank environment. Municipal water systems frequently treat tap water with chemicals that can be detrimental to fish. Some systems have different mineral contents, resulting in hard or soft water. Private well systems can have contaminants or water borne parasites.
There are regional differences in water quality. The baseline quality of your primary source of water will help to determine the type of fish best suited for your home aquarium. Determining water quality can be done by submitting a sample to a laboratory for testing or by conducting testing at home. Pet stores may perform water testing for free or for a nominal fee. Most aquarists elect to invest in a home test kit to regularly monitor water parameters as a part of routine tank maintenance.
Cycle Your Tank, No Pedaling Necessary
A common mistake made by new fish keepers is buying both the tank and fish on the same day. The tank is filled, decorations and accessories are added, then in go the fish. Within a few days, the fish are all dead. This can be frustrating and disheartening. One of the first rules of fish care is to never fill a tank and add fish on the same day. New tanks require time to establish the growth of the beneficial bacteria that break down the wastes removed from the water by chemical and mechanical filtration. This is establishing what is known as the Nitrogen Cycle, also known as the start-up cycle or biological cycle. Establishing the cycle in a new tank can take anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months, or even longer.
Ammonia is produced by fish waste, excess food, and decaying plant matter. In the Nitrogen Cycle, ammonia is converted to nitrites, which are then converted to nitrates. The nitrates are used by live plants, removed via filtration, or diluted through partial water changes. All these changes are brought about by several types of beneficial bacteria. The bacteria can be supplied in a fresh tank via a commercial start up product, by the addition of organic matter (fish food, plant matter, etc.) or by using gravel or filter media from an established tank. More experienced aquarists sometimes add one or two fish to a new tank to establish the Cycle. This would seem to go against previous statements, but in this situation, the aquarist chooses hardy fish able to withstand a new setup. The tank is kept deliberately understocked to avoid ammonia poisoning.
If the tank is not properly cycled prior to the addition of fish, toxic effects of high ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate levels can kill fish if the levels are high enough. Regular water monitoring using a home test kit is recommended to detect spikes or changes in levels.
Time for School
Congratulations on getting your tank set up! Now it is time to stock it. Basic care involves researching and choosing the right fish for your tank. While “pretty” fish can be fun to observe, some can be aggressive or may rapidly outgrow their space. Some species of fish do better in schools while others are more solitary. Fish can also be divided by where they “live” in the tank (bottom feeder versus top feeder), as well as through diet and water temperature discrepancies. Knowledge about the fish preferred will help to provide for a healthy environment. In addition to choosing incompatible fish, overcrowding the tank is another common mistake made by new fish owners. A crowded tank may result in increased aggression, stress, disease, and unhealthy conditions for the inhabitants.
Feeding
All pets need appropriate food and nutrition. Fish do well when their feeding schedule mimics the availability of food in the wild, namely multiple small meals throughout the day. A varied diet is healthiest. Pellets, tabs, flakes, freeze dried, frozen and live foods should all be offered. There are different varieties of dry foods (pellets, tabs, and flakes) from which to choose, such as those dedicated to enhancing color, those based on eggs, and others based on earthworms. Offering a varied diet will ensure that all tank inhabitants receive some favorites.
Live and frozen foods are also available. Aquarists can choose from a wide variety of options. Keeping live food can be a challenge and requires additional space and equipment, but some fish prefer these foods. Frozen foods should be defrosted in a separate container and not simply dropped into the tank to avoid adding any dirt found in the ice to the tank water.
Feed as much as the fish will eat in two to three minutes. Flakes and pellets are acceptable for top feeders and most fish. Bottom feeders will need sinking pellets or sticks. Remember, the more you feed, the more waste is produced. Overfeeding can disrupt the nitrogen cycle in the absence of adequate filtration. This can lead to stress, and illness or infection in the tank.
Stress and Illness
Everyone knows that stress is bad. Fish can feel stress just like we can and they exhibit it in several ways. A lack of activity, behavioral changes, decreased appetite, hiding, clamped fins, color change, or gasping at the surface are all signs of stress in fish. Causes can include poor water quality or diet, incorrect water temperature, being in an overcrowded tank, or living with aggressive fish. The best way to resolve stress is to identify and correct the negative stimuli.
Left unchecked, stress can lead to illness in fish. It can weaken the immune system, leaving them open to bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections. Beneficial bacteria live in the filter and gravel. They are an integral part of the Nitrogen Cycle, which converts wastes and reduces toxins. Harmful bacteria can cause fin rot, ulcers, skin diseases, and internal organ damage. Fungal and parasitic infections can also cause harm, or even death in fish. Clean water, a healthy diet, and a stress-free tank are the best ways to prevent illness in fish.
Most minor infections can be treated with over the counter products, depending on the type of infection present. There are a variety of antibiotics, antifungals, and anti-parasitic medications available online or at most pet stores. It is always recommended to get the advice of an experienced aquarist or a veterinarian experienced in treating fish before medicating. A “hospital” or quarantine tank should be utilized to treat sick fish. Quarantining sick fish can prevent an infection from spreading throughout the larger tank.
Treating a larger tank is much more difficult. The smaller size of the quarantine tank will require significantly less medication and is also beneficial to the inhabitant, requiring them to expend less energy in seeking food and in hiding away from others. A quarantine tank should be warmer by a few degrees than the main tank, provide hiding places, and use dim lighting. Use plastic plants in the quarantine tank because many live plants are adversely affected by medications. Once the infection is resolved and the fish is transferred to back the main tank, the hospital tank can be sanitized and re-established for the next use.
You Can Do It
Once your tank is established and stocked, the average time required for routine care and maintenance time could be as little as an hour per week, depending on the tank size. This allows for many hours of enjoyment with minimal effort.
A pet requires a clean, safe, and stress-free living environment and it is your responsibility to provide one. Fish are not disposable pets. Do not be discouraged when you lose a fish because sometimes fish die for unknown reasons. Keep at it and continue gaining knowledge. If you have questions or need help, use the PetCoach Forum or seek advice from your veterinarian or fellow aquarists